Terra Nullius Part 2

So where was I? oh yeah that’s right; trying to get some slumber in a roadside ditch. Can’t say it was the best night of the trip, the day beforehand had been pretty vexing as well. After getting a minuscule amount of sleep I made my most early start and began I ride to the sun just pushing itself upwards in the distances. I was in the middle of nowhere right now, smack in-between Port Hedland and Broome when something amazing happened. In the early hours of the morning coming out of the vastness, a tiny headlight approached me and slowly grew into my vision. I remember thinking ‘it’s too small to be a road-train, no it’s too small to be a car’ I finally concluded it must be a motorcycle. Out there in the middle of nowhere another outrageous jester enclosed on me on none other than a postie bike. We shared a 3 second moment as we waved passing each other by. I found myself in a state of disbelief which then gave way to a protracted fit of hysterics.

I had soon made it to the next roadhouse to top the little bike up with some overpriced hydrocarbons. Here I ran into an upstanding man from the Czech Republic Miloslav on his Honda CBF250 who had been riding around Australia since January. Starting in Melbourne he road up the East Coast, Down the middle and was completing riding through West Australia. After a brief discussion and much head shaking when he ascertained I was riding my Postie all the way to Europe, he offered to help fix my other mirror with some parts he had salvaged from an abandoned car. Naturally, we made the decision to ride to Broome together, I mean there was only 2 ways out of that roadhouse and one of them led back to Headland which I was in no rush to return to so it made perfect sense.

The weather was unforgiving that day, I was battered by a merciless headwind lowering my cursing speed by 10kms and making my stability as questionable as dipsomaniac’s hike home after closing time. But I pushed on the 400kms into the dubious clouds ahead of me making me pose the question ‘am I riding into a cyclone?’ to myself. Luckily I wasn’t and I made my way towards Broome arriving a little after lunch and just in the nick of time to get caught in the storm which I had been hurling myself towards all day.

After getting entirely drenched around the township of Broome we finally found the hostel and checked in eagerly awaiting some civilized amenities. It’s amusing that only after week on the road a 12-bed dorm can seem like a luxury, but nonetheless, it did. I managed to get some wash done and had a well overdue shower.

In the morning we adjusted Miroslav’s chain and then began to remove my rear tire that had just about no tread left and was as smooth as a well aged single malt whiskey. After having to remove the tire twice it was evident something was wrong with the tire rubbing the left wall of the rear fender. I decided to make some small trips around Broome to re-visit some sights, as no motorcycle shops were open to investigating the issue.

Post office Broome

We made it to cable beach to catch the sunset and when we returned to the bikes we found that my rear tire was as flat as a pancake. So for the third time that day the rear wheel had to come off. To make matters worse my pump had broken after only one use and we had to work by. Luckily a young gentleman on a moped came to our rescue and sourced an air compressor. After replacing the tube the rubbing issue had seemed to be resolved and a massive puncture was discovered on the old tubes side wall (pinching I’d assume).

After deeming the wheel to be on the right side of the sketchiness scale I decided to push onwards to Darwin, rather than be stuck in Broome to wait out the Easter weekend.
Soon the countryside turned bare and the road and the climate became swelteringly unpleasant. Suddenly with Fitzroy Crossing a few hundred kilometers ahead of me “Bang!” and the bike was without power slowly rolling to a stop. I pushed the bike a couple of hundred meters thinking, “must have seized the engine” to a safe-ish section of roadside a got to work. After a roadside oil change and a couple of chapters of reading, I kicked Atty over and she immediately roared into life.

Postie roadhouse_Fotor

Making easy going towards Fitzroy Crossing I soon caught Milo up and had to pay for the first time for the lavishness pleasure to camp at an overinflated price. We made our way to Halls Creek the next day where I met up with an old friend from high school and discussed my foolish idea of an adventure.
By now I was finally well on my way, only maybe a few days ride out of Darwin. Making camp once again on a picnic table I was on the road early through some impressive twisties. Soon I found myself in Kununurra where I could see in the distance a fully laden adventure bike, which I decided to follow.
The rider was an outstandingly hilarious German who had just ridden his bike to Australia from Germany. He managed to put me in contact with another fellow adventure rider who was looking to do an around the world trip himself which has proven to be extremely useful!
Suddenly I was crossing my first border. Sure it was only a state border but at this point, it felt like a massive monument and was a behemoth distance, especially for a bike that was never intended to go past the local corner store.
border WA-NT
Onwards I soon found a tourist drive to a stunning dam with some tight twisty road that put Atty to the test needing to drop all the way down into second just to climb them. But it was worth it.
I slept for the last time on a table I had made some serious progress in a short time, I found myself in Katharine where I called the contact the German had given me. He had said he could organise passage for both out bikes on a boat that was leaving on the 30th. I made some quick pace to Darwin, but not quick enough to miss a brilliant series of twisties off the highway on the way, so twisty we even drove passed a truck which had fully rolled over on the side of the road. Luckily the driver was okay from the look of things and emergency services were attending.
Dam WA
So I was finally in Darwin, the place of my Australian exodus. I met up with Josh, the other fella’ sending his bike overseas with mine. Luckily all the holes in the cheese had aligned and I received a call to notify me that my Carnet was ready so I could ship my bike internationally. Himself and a truly upstanding man called David gave me a place to stay, which I am sharing with a group of adventure riders who have just ridden here all the way from the UK. The atmosphere here has been truly amazing. Complemented with beer, motorcycles and eating kingly feasts we are all taking turns in preparing.

So there it is my adventure through Australia. It so far has been the most outstanding experience I could have asked for living up to all expectations and even exceeding them. Before long the real adventure begins as I further venture outside of my comfort zone on my expedition for pandemonium.

Love and Mercy,
Liam.

4 thoughts on “Terra Nullius Part 2

  1. Congats, dude! We’re following in your wake, Darwin just a day away for us in Moby, the Maui camper van. Safe sailing to you and Atty, and we’ll continue to track your adventure from Dream Time.

    Onwards and upwards, Neville & Catherine

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  2. We enjoy reading your posts and following your exploits. Keep them coming. Travel safe. You’re never far from our thoughts and our very best wishes go with you. Love Bill and Dianne.

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